Mt Blanc Ascent September 2007

Mountain Guides

2011-09-20T07:16:00.000Z

Gents

I am planning on another ski touring expedition next year. Are you boys up for it?

I am thinking of tackling a few of the 4,000ers in the Dolomites.

I am looking at whether it is feasible to put my own trip together and hire a guide.

Two questions:

1. Do you still have the details of our Mt Blanc chap?

2. Do you know where one might go about finding guides?

I hope you guys are well and it would be good to catch up.

Regards

James Mawson

Exton Estates

O: 020 7499 8020
M: 07774 445959

http://www.extonestates.com

Registered Office: 22 Grafton Street, London W1S 4EX. Company Number 4914499

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Please sponsor me

2009-03-30T09:57:00.001Z

Hello

I'm taking part in the New Forest Half Ironman on 31/05/2009 to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support and I'd really appreciate your support.

It's easy to sponsor me online by credit or debit card - just go to my Justgiving page:

http://www.justgiving.com/jamesmawson

Justgiving sends your donation straight to Macmillan Cancer Support and automatically reclaims Gift Aid if you're a UK taxpayer, so your donation is worth even more. I hope you'll join me in supporting Macmillan Cancer Support.

Thank you.

James

P.S. I used Justgiving to send this email, so please don't reply to it. Replies will go to Justgiving, not to me!

Happy Christmas

2007-12-24T08:38:00.000Z

For those taking advantage of the festive season for boring more relatives with the photos, I have just added George's collection

Happy Christmas one and all.

(P.S. Giving thought to Matterhorn in 2009 but yet to do my research.)

Mountain Men

2007-10-07T12:27:00.000Z

Team Cowen hits the newswires!

Personally I am delighted at having completed all the munros.

Summit Photos

2007-09-28T22:06:00.000Z

Small gallery of summit shots can be found by entering the photo gallery and searching for "summit".

Still a few missing (Mawson!)

(Big thanks to Richard, chief guide, for making sure that Team Cowen got their shot)

(For the techies: To add a photo to this group simply tag the photo as "summit")

Reunion Dinner!

2007-09-28T09:17:00.001Z

Time: Monday 22 October, 7 for 7.30

Venue: the West Library at the Athenaeum Club, 107 Pall Mall.
www.athenaeumclub.co.uk

The Club opens on to Waterloo Place, by the steps leading down to the
Mall. It is recognizable by the large gold statue of Athene above the
entrance and the classical frieze around the building. The club telno
is 020 7930 4843 and my mobile is 07740 552622. Don't let any taxi
driver take you to the Athenaeum Hotel, which is somewhere else
altogether.

When you come in, leave any coats on the pegs in the entrance hall
(gents) or downstairs (ladies) and make your way upstairs. The West
library is on the left at the top of the stairs and I shall try to be
the first one there.

Suggested menu:

Marinated salmon in dill
Supreme of pheasant with a wild mushroom ragout
Seasonal vegetables and potatoes
Apple and raspberry strudel, chocolate sauce
Coffee

Champagne JP Robert
Claret Chateau Lacoste-Borie 2001
Port Taylors LBV 2000

Dress: tbc

Looking forward to a proper celebration of our triumphs,

David

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Alpine pics

2007-09-17T23:05:00.000Z

Hi folks

I have added some pictures to the Picassa site – they are in a different directory but it should be fairly obvious how to get to them (if anyone knows how to move then, please do). Her e you will see the ascent of the Gran Paradiso from the valley floor -no chair lifts for some of us and even the donkeys declined to carry me up – to the Madonna at the top. Quite why she is there is beyond me (but then she probably wondered why I was there.

Mark

Scrambles amongst the Alps

2007-09-17T14:49:00.000Z

I’ve been reading Edward Whymper’s “Scrambles Amongst the Alps, 1860-1869” and came across the following which may strike a chord:

“We who go mountain-scrambling have constantly set before us the superiority of fixed purpose or perseverance to brute force. We know that each height, each step, must be gained by patient, laborious toil, and that wishing cannot take the place of working; we know the benefits of mutual aid; that many a difficulty must be encountered, and many an obstacle must be grappled with or turned; but we know that where there’s a will there’s a way: and we come back to our daily occupations better fitted to fight the battle of life, and to overcome the impediments which obstruct our paths, strengthened and cheered by the recollection of past labours, and by the memories of victories gained in other fields.

…

We cannot estimate our enjoyment as you measure your wine or weigh your lead; it is real, nevertheless. If I could blot out every reminiscence or erase every memory, still I should say that my scrambles amongst the Alps have repaid me, for they have given me two of the best things a man can possess – health and friends.”

The whole week was awesome – thanks, friends, for making it such fun as well.

David

Morning all

2007-09-15T11:03:00.000Z

Well a week back from the ascent and I'm sitting watching Portugal v the All blacks remembering the Savoy, the french defeat at the hand of the Argies and cheap jugs of beer. Tim, I think the blog has been a great success and you have at least converted mawson to the ways of the web. I have uploaded my meagre contribution of photos and look forward to seeing the rest.

James M I will be touch re the grand reunion

James

Shared Photo Album

2007-09-09T08:04:00.000Z

I have set up a web album for everyone to post photos to. The easiest way to add photos is to:

Put your photos onto your PC as usual

Download Picasa

If Picasa does not find your photos automatically then import them manually

To upload photos, select the photos you want to upload and use the "Web Album" button (large icon at bottom of screen). In the wizard you will need to "Sign In" as an existing user. The username is MtBlancGimps@gmail.com and the password is an essential piece of mountain climbing equipment that any self-respecting individual will not do with out (all one word).

Once signed in, selcet the "Add to an existing album" option and then select "Mt Blanc Ascent September 2007" in the album title field. Finally, in the "Upload Setting" select the "Slowest Upload, Largest Size" option so everybody can get best quality photos for printing.

Once your photos are in you can add captions, tags etc like this example. We can also add suitably inappropriate comments to any photos (a play ground for Mr.Mawson I fear)

(If you are a budding commercial photogrpher bear in mind these photos are available to anybody with nothing better to do)

Never again

2007-09-07T13:11:00.000Z

Breakfast at one in the morning,

The refuge was basic but better than the last one. The room shared with 35 men - not inviting and the loos can be smelt at 200m.
I hated every second of the climb. It was far tougher than I imagined. I had to ask our guide, Peter to stop several times. I felt every step was painful. I wondered why I was there and felt I wanted to quit at each step. T he best thing is that now completed I NEVER have to do it again.
Walking down was fabulous. The views and sunshine.
Recovery seems good for all.

James Mawson
Exton Estates

2007-09-06T13:21:00.000Z

Richard our guide has shocked the team (I think it must be the altitude) in saying that the whole team should make it tomorrow subject to the weather
James Mawson
Exton Estates

Gouter Hut 3800m

2007-09-06T13:15:00.000Z

Emily our french teacher with septic feet is being heroic but is also exhausted

Cowan senior is loosening up and is getting ready for the big push tomorrow.

Barlow is stating that he is boshed

The judge is missing his wig but has at least now worked out how to use his camel bag

Mawson had a great bowl of pasta on the way up that boosted performance on the final scramble

Cowan junior is fed up with carrying extra crampons but is so pleased that The Gouter Hut has taken his John Lewis card and has racked up a few more points

Deborah is on the pills
James Mawson
Exton Estates

Unnatural act

2007-09-06T05:48:00.001Z

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2007-09-05T10:09:00.000Z

13625 keep this brief as minus 20

Hope mr C is enjoying his stroll
James Mawson
Exton Estates

Aiguille du tour 3500 m

2007-09-04T09:33:00.000Z

After a concerning night when George had to be reminded that he was getting into the wrong bed we set off in the dark at 5.15 to conquer our first peak.

Whilst on the sleeping arrangements it became apparant that the air quality was worse than London on a bad day. David even tried to throw himself off the top bunk in a bid for freedom.

One further concerning comment about the chaps was that he was admiring the colourful bits on the rear of my gaitors

These guys have little mincy fagged balls ! The guide

As chief guide. I am not sure I should concur with my fellow guide however time will tell
James Mawson
Exton Estates

Alberts Hut 2700m

2007-09-03T15:09:00.000Z

Cowen (not passport Cowen) confirmed that today was just a bloody flog up a hill followed by crampon action and extreme ice decent. By comparison team mawson, barlow and crawford have again been messing around in cham. Mawson is making like a mountain goat. All well. Team mba
James Mawson
Exton Estates

Emergency Contact Details

2007-08-31T19:33:00.001Z

Most of us have mobiles with us. We are travelling with KE Adventures and are staying at the Yeti Lodge.

Itinerary

2007-08-31T19:21:00.000Z

01 Sep 07 Rendezvous at the group's chalet in Argentiere in the Chamonix Valley. The guide will chat about the days ahead and check out your equipment before dinner.
02 Sep 07 We take the train from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace, where we practice using our ice-axe and crampons. Return to Chamonix on the railway, and back to the chalet.
03 Sep 07 Taking the cable car from Le Tour to the Col de Balme, we walk to the Albert Premier Hut (2707m) and have a further opportunity to practice snow and ice skills.
04 Sep 07 After an early start, we climb the Aguille du Tour (3542m) for views which extend all the way to the Matterhorn. We descend back to the valley and to our Chalet in Argentiere.
05 Sep 07 We take the Aiguille Midi cable car to the Aiguille Midi (3800m). Cross the Vallee Blanche to Hellbronner, return by cable car to Chamonix.
06 Sep 07 Climbing Mont Blanc, we can tackle either the 'Normal Route,' via the Dome du Gouter, or the longer 'Traverse Route' via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. Overnight in a hut on either route.
07 Sep 07 An early start for the ascent to Mont Blanc's summit (4807m). Mostly open snow-slope climbing on either route. Return via the 'Normal Route' to the valley. Chalet.
08 Sep 07 Services (?!) end after breakfast.

Too late to do anything about it now

2007-08-31T19:18:00.001Z

We are off tomorrow morning, meeting up in Chamonix mid afternoon to discover if we have anything like the right kit and to see who is the least fit.

Training is over. The half marathon never happened, nor did the training weekend. Fortunately we can always claim that it was the altitude.

Posting via e-mail

2007-06-06T15:21:00.000Z

Very impressed by all these new posts appearing!

Quick tip to use when posting via e-mail: Type #end after the text you want to send. This will prevent the blog from beong chocked with confidentiality messages and other interesting e-mail signature items.

High Altitude Fitness - Alternative Regime

2007-06-06T14:22:00.000Z

The sole piece of advice I have received to date is to encourage some of the aerobic versatility through excessive smoking at sea level. To that extent how about marking England’s further decent into the nanny state with a day in the pub, ashtrays at hand, on Saturday 30^th June thus providing the perfect forum for discussion of alternative altitude busting techniques?

George Crawford

Weekend Trip

2007-06-06T13:46:00.000Z

I'm a virgin as I have never written on a blog before and it has taken me most of the day to get to this point! Is there a weekend in July/August that suits everyone for a team building/walking weekend. We can either do this in the lakes or Wales or if we were really brave meet up in Scotland. Let me have some dates and I will get something organised.

Calculate how far you have Run

2007-06-02T10:21:00.000Z

Just found a great gadget based on Google Maps that allows you to plot a run and save the route. James, here is the East Curthwaite block.

Motivation

2007-05-29T21:58:00.000Z

After the depression of the training schedule, this cheered me up

Training Schedule

2007-05-29T20:47:00.000Z

Don't know about you but the training is not going so well. Well OK, just not going. So I thought a bit of research was required to find out what my odds are.

Some bad news:

The big push is a 12 hour day (starts at 2.00am!)
We have about a 50% chance of making it
All the below points to having to be fitter than I ever have been

From Mountain Madness:

TRAINING PROGRAM: This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.

The good news is that they use the same text for preparing for their Matterhorn trip so they are possibly bluffing. (the Matterhorn is one of my life time objectives by the way.)

Sadly though Alpine Guides state the need to be at “fitness level 3” which they define as:

You do cardiovascular sport 3-4 sessions a week. ie you get out every weekend, plus 2-3 times midweek. At this level you are happy doing a 6-8 hr hillwalk, 50ml cycle or 5hr mountain bike ride without being totally cream crackered. If you are into challenges - then the thought of training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn't seem too ridiculous. (Should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale - Pike of Stickle - Angle Tarn - Bow Fell - Crinkle Crags - Pike of Blisco - Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.)

Not sure "You" is "Me" unfortunately. Looks like we may have a training walk plan though James? Anybody fancy a half marathon in August? For reference here is a 10 week training program for a half marathon which would be about right if we start now!

The International School of Mountaineering add:

“As a training guideline you need to be comfortable (!) carrying a 10kg rucksack for a full day out in the hills, taking in as much ascent as possible.”

But hey, what would they know. Responsible Travel have these words of wisdom to add to my gloom:

Suggested preparation: One hour of aerobic type exercise, four to five times a week for three to six months before your trek. Hill walking with a pack in variable weather conditions is also recommended.

Hopefully "responsible" doesn't apply to us.

The site which provided the 50% statisitic ("statistics show an average rate of success of 55 % for roped parties on the Three Mont-Blanc route, and 50 % for roped parties on the Goûter route" offer 5 common reasons for failure, one of which is:

Insufficient training: you must train seriously during the three months before the training course : run 30 minutes three times a week, bike six hours a week, or walk 8 hours each week-end, on routes with a few steep hills.

Don't know about you but the last time I spent six hours on a bike in a week was when I had a Grifter.

So on balance, yes there is a little work to be done. At least I am now sufficiently scared which was, afterall, the objective of doing some research.

Expedition Confirmed & Flight Details

2007-02-12T11:57:00.000Z

All,

Thanks for getting back to me with booking details and deposits. I’ve submitted a group booking form to KE and have spoken with them to confirmed our booking from 1st – 8th September (http://www.keadventure.com/trip/details/dates.php?r=88). Also the team is now 6 with George Crawford, a good friend of Tim’s, confirming his place as of last week.

So time to book the flights…
I will arrange a bus/taxi’s to take us from Geneva to Argentier leaving around 3:00pm on Saturday 1st Sept. Allowing a max of 2hrs transfer this should get us to the lodge with time to get ourselves organized for the next days walking. On the 8th the KE package finishes after breakfast and will therefore arrange transport to pick us up around 12 noon getting us to the airport around 1.30 / 2pm

At the moment return flights from London range from £65 (easyjet) to £100 (BA), this includes tax etc… Can I suggest you opt for the BA flight (see details below). This allows those coming from Edinburgh to connect and will ensure we all arrive in Geneva at the same time. Once you have tickets sorted can you send me an email to let me know including flight details if they differ from below.

Apart from the final payment to KE (£1199) in mid June that’s it until September. I have attached a Kit list and if you have any questions on the trip or kit required just give me a call. We’ll look to sort out drinks and maybe some walking before the big trip so look forward to seeing you all then if not before.

James

----------------------

BA Flight Details
Outbound
1st September 2007

Depart
Plan to arrive around 2pm and clear the airport by 3pm
London Heathrow - 1140 (BA)
Geneva - 1420 (BA)

Return
8th September 2007
Arrive at airport and check in around 2pm
Geneva - 1515 (BA)
London Heathrow - 1605 (BA)

Details required from the Committed

2007-01-31T17:09:00.000Z

So, we are beginning to sort out the men from the boys and are now 5 in total

Mont Blanc Sept 07 Expedition Team

Michael Cowen
Tim Barlow
James Mawson
Max Oatley
James Cowen

I now want to move quickly to get the admin out the way. With this in mind I have soft booked the 1st – 8th Sept with KE Travel and now need to complete a group booking form. Can you get back to me with the following information (you will need your passport to complete this).

Information Required:

Name: (as it appears on passport)
Occupation:
Passport Details

Number:
Issue Date:
Expiry Date (check you have at least 6 month from September):
Place of Issue:

Contact address:
Contact Number
Email Address
ALL correspondence by post or email?:
Any medical Needs/ allergies/history of serious operations:
Emergency Contact Whilst On Holiday:Relationship:Contact details (Mobile/ Home):
Dietary Requirements: (I’m assuming none)
Outdoor Experience (brief summary of experience over the last 3 years, walking, skiing etc)

James

Next Steps

2006-10-13T13:14:00.000Z

Tim well done getting the expedition Blog set up, I feel we have now passed a significant milestone...

So where are we:
Following my initial mail out to likely candidates, I feel we are now starting to hone in on the movers & shakers:

In for the moment
Mr Tim Barlow
Mr James Mawson
Mr Tom Chapman
Mr Pete Stumcke

On the fence
Mr Ben Potter is still in consultation with his wife, Lisa, as to the risks involved

Out
Our good friend Mr Nick Schutz has declined (for the moment)

Next Steps
I am going to speak to 2 companies offering packages for the treck and get an idea on schedule, dates and prices. Armed with this information we should then be able to start making some firm commitments

In terms of Schedule I know Tom and James M are keen to opt for an extended trip rather than a 3 day rush job. With this in mind I think a few days dedicated to Alpine training / acclimatisation before the big push is the way forward. James M I know you are keen to look into the options of driving to Chamonix so will factor that option in as well. Anything other requirements let me know.

Will get back to you in the next few weeks with packages and prices and will then look for some more solid commitment from the team. In my mind we want to have this pretty much sorted by close of the year.

That’s it
James

2006-09-12T19:45:00.000Z

Feedback from one Mont Blanc guide company

Thank you for your e-mail. Please find below our information for an ascent of Mont-Blanc.

Please note that the Mont-Blanc is a serious high mountain route and very physically demanding.We recommended that you do a 5 day Mont-Blanc course (information below).

Price: 875 € /person. 2 persons per guide.

Price includes: guides services with an internationally qualified (IFMGA) mountain guide, half-board in the mountain hut during the Mont-Blanc ascent, transport in cable-cars and on mountain railways, group equipment.

Price does not include: lodgings in Chamonix, day food, drinks.

Personal equipment : rucksack, head torch with new batteries, jacket (gore- tex type outer garments), micro fibre, polar-fleece, hat, warm gloves, gaiters, water bottle, sunglasses, sun cream, picnic, hill food.

Technical equipment (ice axe, crampons adapted to mountaineering boots) can be rented in any sport shop in Chamonix.Your guide can provide your harness.

Bookings : from mid-June until the end of September. If you can, do not reserve during august: it is very very busy....we need to reserve the guide and the mountain hut well in advance.

MONT-BLANC COURSE.

Reaching the summit of Mont-Blanc, the highest point in Europe, is a wonderful experience, and one which is accessible to fit, experienced walkers.

In order to give you the best chance of getting there, we offer 5-days course with a 2:1 client/guide ratio. This personalized approach increases safety and allows the guide to tailor his work to meet your needs.

Despite the large number of people who get to the summit, and the reputation Mont-Blanc has for being an “easy tick”, it is actually a serious high mountain route and very physically demanding. Anybody attempting it should be in excellent physical condition.

If the prevailing weather conditions are unsuitable for climbing Mont-Blanc itself, your guide will be able to suggest suitable alternatives (ex. ascents of 4000m peaks in Switzerland or Italy).

The program:Learning how to walk and climb properly on a glacier with crampons and ice-axe.Acclimatizing at altitude on snow or mixed routes; e.g. Vallée Blanche traverse + ascent of the Aiguille de Toule, Petite Aiguille Verte, Mont-Blanc du Tacul (if Mont-Blanc is to be attempt by the Gouter hut), Crochues traverse etc...Ascent of Mont-Blanc.

This program is obviously very weather dependant and subject to change. Your guide may have to modify the schedule so that the summit day coincides with the most favourable conditions.

CLIMBING MONT-BLANC

The ascent during 2 days of the highest peak in Europe (4807 m), a fantastic viewpoint over the Alps.

Technical level :A relatively simple snow route at the high altitude which requires good physical condition.

In order to increase your chance of success, we recommended that you also do a snow route or a few hours of ice-climbing training beforehand. The ascent is not recommended for people under the age of 18.The guide can take a maximum of two people on his rope. This rule is a judge of quality and security and therefore an extra chance of success for this ascent.

Personal insurance :We advice you to take a personal insurance (for instance a C.A.F. insurance card).

Normal route

1st day:Bellevue (1850 m) by the les Houches cable car, Nid d’Aigle (2372 m) by the Mont-Blanc tramway, Tête Rousse hut (3167 m) : 2h to 2h30 then to the Goûter hut (3819 m) : 2h to 3h.

2nd day:From the Goûter hut to the dôme du Goûter : 2h30 then to the Vallot hut (4362 m) : 1h, followed by the Bosses ridge to the summit : 1h30 to 2h.

Descent : By the Aiguille du Goûter or by the Grands Mulets hut (3050 m) on the Plan de l’Aiguille.Eventually the descent can be made by the traverse of Mont-Blanc, Mont-Maudit, Mont-Blanc du Tacul and return by the Aiguille du Midi cable car. Traverse of Mont-Blanc

The Cosmiques hut allows the ascent of Mont-Blanc, climbing successively Mont-Blanc du Tacul, the Mont-Maudit and the Mont-Blanc per a logical and beautiful route.

1st day: From the summit of the Aiguille du Midi cable-car, a short walk (less than 1 hour) allows us to reach the Cosmiques hut (3613 m).

2nd day:Ascent of Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4200 m), then the shoulder of Mont-Maudit (4280 m), the col de la Brenva and the summit of Mont-Blanc (4807 m) after 6 to 8 hours of ascent.

Descent by 2 routes:Grands Mulets hut or Goûter hut depending on snow and glacier conditions, approximately 4 to 5 hours of descent.

James

2006-09-12T19:19:00.000Z

Feeds

Thought I try and give myself a quick teach in on some of the tech. I am trying to subscribe myself to the site feed. This allows anyone who cares to be automatically updated to subscribe to the blog and be auto-notified of any new posts. I have just included a link to two different feed codes - Atom and RSS in the right hand menu of the site. Frankly I know next to nothing about them but what I do know is that this helps someone subscribe.

I am trying to subscribe in two ways (either of which should do the trick):

Using the automatic facility in my Firefox browser. Click on little orange icon in bottom right hand corner.
Through Newsgator - which I am going to attempt to get linked up to my Outlook. I believe this will allow me to read posts as I do e-mails form within Outlook

Fingers crossed

Tim

2006-09-12T18:47:00.000Z

What the Hell do we Want a Blog For?

In short: James and I decided we wanted to work out what all the fuss about blogging is about.

We have this sneaking suspicion that blogging has all sorts of applications for the business world (where we spend most of our time). OK, we know they do but don't have any first hand experience of it - yet.

This blog will hopefully get us up to speed with the basics as well as find out just how useful a blog is for project management or otherwise.

Who knows, it might even provide some amusement to family and friends as we attempt to send pictures from our mobiles whilst suffering half way up the mountain.

Tim

2006-09-12T18:40:00.000Z

The Challenge

Whilst getting off to a rather slow start I am proud to announce that the Mont Blanc Expedition in now off the ground – at least I’ve started to do some digging in terms of prices and general approach/logistics to climbing Europe’s highest summit!

Initial thoughts

We need a guide!
Whilst not hugely technical, basic experience using ice axes, crampons and basic rope work is required. With this in mind I think it would be sensible to take an extended trip which provides some training before the big climb (would assist with acclimatization)
Each of us would need to be pretty fit and have the right gear
Season is from mid June – End of September - Think we may struggle to be ready this year, damn the ski season!!

What next

Whilst we may have missed the boat this year I still really want to do this, having been to Chamonix and seen the thing as well as listened to others who have done it, it sounds like an incredible mountain to climb. It may well be that we kick this thing off again in a couple of months, however I would like to start to get an idea of who’s interested and you views the approach to take.

Let me know

James